While You Were Sleeping: January 15, 2015

by Derek Kreindler

Updated: February 24th, 2015 Published: January 15th, 2015

Everything you wanted to know about rust proofing, the economics of diesel pricing and more.

#WhileYouWereSleeping

Derek Kreindler

More by Derek Kreindler

Comments

Join the conversation

9 of 26 comments

Don1967 on Jan 15, 2015

Pretty much any oily product thoroughly applied every year or two will make a huge difference after 10 years up here in the salt belt. But as the author says, they are incredibly messy and can damage rubber seals. People who claim that modern cars don't rust either don't drive in road salt, or they've never crawled underneath to see the horrors of rotting subframes, brake lines, etc. Another possibility is that they drive a BMW, Volvo or VW, which seem naturally rust resistant.

Like Reply
Big L from Chicago on Jan 15, 2015

What happened to Galvanized cars? Porsche, Audi, Chrysler minivans, Chevy Safari's were made with Galvanized steel bodies, save for the roof. Was it cost cutting, high strength steel, or some other factor that caused the disappearance?

Like Reply
- See 2 previous
- Heavy handle on Jan 15, 2015
  
  A galvanized body helps, but it's not a cure-all. For instance, it doesn't keep 1990's Imprezas from rusting between the rear door and the wheel well. Any area that traps water will rust-through eventually.
  
  Like
- Big L from Chicago on Jan 15, 2015
  
  @heavy handle Were 90's Subarus galvanized? I didn't know.
  
  Like
- Krhodes1 on Jan 16, 2015
  
  @Big L from Chicago Given that they dissolved in the Northeast, seems highly unlikely.
  
  Like
JimC2 on Jan 15, 2015

Isn't Rust Check around anymore?

Like Reply
Big Al from Oz on Jan 16, 2015

In aviation we use a product called LPS-3. It is used on aircraft that are exposed to maritime conditions as well. If I remember it is good for a couple of years. Here's a link; http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612 Don't forget to read the technical data.

Like Reply
- See 1 previous
- JimC2 on Jan 16, 2015
  
  Oh yes, LPS-1 and -3 are both carried by at least one hardware store chain in the United States. Good stuff, a lot better than WD-40.
  
  Like
- Big Al from Oz on Jan 16, 2015
  
  @JimC2, LPS-3 is different from LPS-2 which we also use, that is similar in use to WD40. LPS-3 must be similar to Tectal as it has the same MIL-SPEC, with a different classification number. Tectal is the best stuff to use as an anti-corrosive. But the item must be cleaned as it doesn't have the penetrating power of the LPS-3. LPS-2 doesn't leave a waxy protective coating like LPS-3. I think LPS-2 is good for a year in as an anti-corrosive.
  
  Like